Aeron Targets Less Weight and Better Puncture Protection with New TPU Inner Tubes

Aeron is targeting less weight and better puntuture protection across all disciplines with the introduction of its latest TPU inner tubes.

Despite tubeless tire and wheel applications becoming the norm these days, TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) is gaining ground when it comes to inner tubes. Until now, the butyl inner tube was the measure of all things. Whether roadies, mountain bikers, gravel riders or even commuters, everyone has used a butyl tube. However, the cycling world is actually on the brink of a kind of turning point: the good old black butyl tube could – and probably should – soon be a thing of the past. But, the old familiar products are being replaced by TPU inner tubes, which are now being offered by several brands. TPU has many advantages over the black rubber inner tube. But what is TPU anyway? Thermoplastics are plastics that deform when heated and solidify when they cool down. This property makes them ideal for the production of bicycle inner tubes, as they can easily adapt to any tire size and width. TPU inner tubes can also be customized. For example, they can be produced in multiple layers, equipped with more or less puncture protection and produced in any color.

For the road, Aeron offers three 700c sizes, 23-28mm, 28-32mm wide and 25-35mm, along with valves stem lengths in 42mm, 65mm and 80mm valve stem lengths, while gravel cyclists are offered one tube with valve lengths in 42mm and 62mm lengths of that fits 32-52mm tires in both 650B and 700c rim diameters.  

As for the urban cyclist, tubes with two levels of puncture protection are available in 650b and 700c sizes to accommodate tires ranging from 37mm to 65mm, with both Presta and Schrader valve stem options.

TUBELESS OR TPU INNER TUBE FOR ROAD BIKES? Aeron explains:

•  In terms of rolling resistance, a tubeless system is a tiny bit ahead of the TPU system, which in turn performs a tad weaker than latex tubes. In races, this may be an argument in favor of tubeless, but for normal training rides it is probably negligible.
• Weight: In comparison, the TPU system is probably ahead here. With a 30 millimeter wide tire, the necessary sealing milk in the tubeless tire in combination with its valve (and the tubeless patches “bacon strips”, “flick sausages” or “tubeless salami”) are already heavier than a TPU tube.
• Pack size: Regardless of which tire sizes are used, replacement sealant and TPU tubes should have roughly the same pack size.
• Puncture protection: Tubeless has always been the measure of all things. If a small spike punctures the tire, you pull it out and the sealant closes the hole. This happens quickly and lasts for hours, days, weeks, even months. Often you can’t even find the puncture on visual inspection. Things get complicated when you don’t have to repair a small puncture, but a larger hole that the sealant alone cannot manage. This is where the tubeless salamis come in. If you have some practice, this is relatively easy to do. However, if there is a large tear in the tire casing, caused by a large shard for example, and even several tubeless patches no longer help, then you’re out of luck. You’re lucky if you have a TPU inner tube with you as a spare. However, to be honest, this is where the mess with the sealant begins. And at the latest when your hands and clothes are soiled with the sticky stuff, some road cyclists will ask themselves why they didn’t opt for a puncture-proof TPU inner tube.
• Which brings us to the assembly. TPU hoses are available with Sklaverand valves (SV; with a small valve core). They are just as easy to fit as the old butyl tubes. Remove the tire from the rim on one side, remove the old inner tube and valve, insert the new inner tube, pump it up slightly, lift the tire onto the rim, and inflate the inner tube completely and you’re done.
• All in all – considering rolling resistance, lightness, puncture protection and cleanliness – we would recommend TPU tubes.

TUBELESS OR TPU INNER TUBE FOR GRAVEL BIKES?

•  As mentioned, in terms of rolling resistance, a tubeless system is a tiny bit ahead of the TPU system. In races this may be an argument in favor of tubeless, but for adventure and training rides it is probably negligible.
• Weight: The TPU system is probably ahead here. With a 40 millimeter wide tire, the necessary sealant in the tubeless tire in combination with its valve (whether Sclaverand with valve core or auto valve) and the tubeless patches (“bacon strips”, “flick sausages” or “tubeless salami”) are already heavier than a TPU tube.
• Pack size: Replacement sealant and TPU inner tube should be roughly the same size.
• Puncture protection: Tubeless has always been the measure of all things. If a small spike punctures the tire, you pull it out and the sealant closes the hole. This is quick and lasts for hours, days, weeks, even months. Things get complicated when you have to patch a larger hole that the sealant alone cannot manage. This is where the tubeless salami comes in. If you have some practice, this is relatively easy. However, if there is a large tear in the casing, caused by a large shard for example, and even several tubeless patches no longer help, then you are out of luck. You’re lucky if you have a TPU inner tube as a spare. However, to be honest, this is where the mess with the sealant begins. And at the latest when your hands and clothes are soiled with the sticky stuff, some of you will wonder why you didn’t opt for a puncture-proof TPU inner tube in the first place.
• Which brings us to the assembly. TPU hoses are available with Sklaverand valves (SV, with small valve core) as well as with auto valves. They are just as easy to fit as the old butyl tubes. Remove the tire from the rim on one side, remove the old inner tube and valve, insert the new inner tube, pump it up slightly, lift the tire onto the rim, and inflate the inner tube fully and you’re done.

Aeron